A luxurious lifestyle is embodied through many means. Exclusive pieces from elite fashion houses known as haute couture has been the trend for over 2 centuries, but where did this catacomb of tantalizing garments start?
According to the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode “The origins of Haute Couture are attributed to Charles Frederick Worth who in 1858 founded the first true Couture House at number 7, rue de la Paix in Paris.” (Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode)
The Metropolitan Museum recants, “Charles Frederick Worth was born in England and spent his young adulthood working for textile merchants in London while researching art history at museums. In 1845 he moved to Paris and worked as a salesman and a dressmaker before partnering with Otto Bobergh to open the dressmaking shop, Worth and Bobergh, in 1858.
At his shop, Worth fashioned completed creations which he then showed to clients on live models. Clients could then order their favorites according to their own specifications. This method is the origin of haute couture.” Perfume Click UK states “using live models instead of mannequins and the manner in which he used them to showcase clothes for potential clients became the blueprint for the modern catwalk show.” (Perfume Click)
The exquisite and intrinsic designs caught the eyes of royalty and blossomed a reputation of elegance in high demand. Worth raised the artistic and technical standard for fashion by using interchangeable patterns that later become the premise of ready made pieces.
“Wealthy women in the 19th century had four changes of dress during the day, and many clients would purchase their entire wardrobes from Worth. In 1871, Worth dissolved his association with Bobergh. His design and promotional talents had made the House of Worth a highly successful international business.[1] Upon Worth’s death in 1895, sons Gaston-Lucien (1853–1924) and Jean-Philippe (1856–1926) assumed the business.” (Krick)
The Worth sons went on to evolve the world of couture with their own innovations. Vie Magazine reports, Jean Phillipe partnered with Cartier to embellish his designs with diamonds to satisfy the quality of luxury represented through their high profile clientele. This led to the embellishments of Swarovski stones as well.
The Worth’s brand surpassed gowns into the aromatics of luxury, perfume. “In 1924, the House, now operated by grandson Jacques Worth, ventured into the perfume market. The company’s first fragrance, developed by perfumer Maurice Blanchet, was Dans la Nuit, and glassmaker René Lalique was commissioned to design the bottle.[3]” As a respected couture house House of Worth was one of the first fashion brands to venture into the perfumery market. “Les Parfumes Worth was established as a separate business and launched more than 20 fragrances between 1924 and 1947.[4]“
While Worth’s fashion prowess was growing a couture fashion syndicate was born to be the connoisseurs and executives of what’s haute and what’s not.
“At the origins of the Federation lies the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture. Founded in 1868 and then known as the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture, des Confectionneurs et des Tailleurs pour Dame (Chambre Syndicale for Couture, clothing manufacturers and tailors for women), it became the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne on December 14th 1910. Following the decision taken on January 23rd 1945 relating to the creation of the legally registered designation of origin ” Haute Couture “, it became the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture. The only institutions to serve here are the ones that have received the designation, which those companies approved each year by a dedicated commission held under the aegis of the Ministry for Industry may become eligible for.” (Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode)
This committee was influenced by the movement of designers and couturiers that spawned two other committees.
“Over the course of the 1960s the movement of fashion designers who linked forces with the great couturiers emerged. Consequently the Chambre Syndicale du Prêt-à-Porter des Couturiers et des Créateurs de Mode was founded on October 8th 1973. On the same day the Chambre Syndicale de la Mode Masculine came into being. The momentum generated by these three Chambres Syndicales led to the creation that same day of the Fédération Française de la Couture, du Prêt-à-Porter des Couturiers et des Créateurs de Mode. On June 29th 2017 it became the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode.”
The standard set by Charles Frederick Worth is monumental as his eye for design was able to reshape fashion across the globe at a time of war and economic depression. His glorious marketing efforts, prestigious, clients, and groundbreaking techniques and desire for intricate finesse and elegance has pioneered a world of visionaries to come and challenge the ideals of the elite and traditions of yesterday.
You can find out more about Charles Fredrick Worth and the House of Worth at The Met Museum Collection here.
References
Gerrie, A. (2018, March 29). The House of Worth and the Birth of Haute Couture. VIE Magazine. https://viemagazine.com/article/the-house-of-worth-and-the-birth-of-haute-couture/
Krick, Jessa. “Charles Frederick Worth (1825–1895) and the House of Worth.” In Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2000–. http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/wrth/hd_wrth.htm (October 2004)
Perfume Click. (n.d.). Worth perfume and Women Fragrances. https://www.perfume-click.co.uk/Perfume/Worth/#click
Staff. (nd-c). Our history. Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode. https://www.fhcm.paris/en/our-history#:~:text=The%20origins%20of%20Haute%20Couture,de%20la%20Paix%20in%20Paris.